How to Set up & Maintain a Freshwater Aquarium
Setting up an aquarium can be an entertaining and worthwhile interest for adults and kids alike. It has been proven that watching fish in a healthy and properly maintained aquarium can decrease your anxiety.
But before buying an aquarium, you need to think about all the factors to ensure the underwater network that you select to create is sorted properly, and that the fish stay healthy.
As a common rule, you need to buy an aquarium as large as possible. Larger aquariums carry more water and it is very easy to maintain a healthy habitat in it for your fish.
Tools
The tools needed depends upon the type of set up that is selected. Freshwater aquaria can be used to keep either cold water species e.g. goldfish which should be kept at room temperature or tropical species which should be kept in hot water.
A universal checklist for a freshwater aquarium should contain the following:
- Glass or acrylic aquarium
- Appropriate stand
- Grit
- Purification
- Lighting
- Safe lid
- Siphon cleaning device (recommended)
- Ornaments
- Plants
- Heater (tropical set-ups)
- Water conditioner/Dechlorinator
- Thermometer
- Water testing kits
- Food
Positioning The Tank
Once all the tools are ready, the tank should be placed carefully so it is:
- Out of direct daylight and away from sources of warmth.
- On a perfectly plane level surface or stand which can forever support the weight of the tank when it is filled with water.
Maturing The Tank
Freshwater fish have very little or no tolerance of ammonia (NH3) or nitrites (NO2-) so that the aquarium requires to be ‘matured’ before being completely stocked. Maturing a tank includes growing a community of nitrifying bacteria in the filter media. These bacteria are the reason for rapidly breaking down fish waste into ammonia, nitrites (both of which are risky to fish) and then much less poisonous nitrates.
Once the aquarium has been filled and the water has been dechlorinated, activate your tools. It is recommended to leave the aquarium for a day or two. This confirms that the temperature is reached if it is a tropical set-up, as well as confirming that the tools are operating correctly.
Following this process, there are two normally used techniques to mature the aquarium’s filter. A commercially available bacterial supplement can be added, following the manufacturer’s guidelines, or a small quantity of fish can be added to the aquarium. Whichever technique you use, the ammonia and nitrite ranges must initially successively rise and then fall while the nitrate (the end product of filtration) ranges will normally continue to rise. It is crucial if you have added fish that the ranges of these waste products do NOT rise above the recommendations given below (these are for home aquaria). Regular partial water adjustments will be required. You must use test kits frequently to observe any adjustments in water conditions and take action as necessary. Once these ranges have dropped to a secure level (ideally zero) permanently, the tank is mature and stocking can continue slowly. Each time you add extra fish or increase feeding, a ‘mini’ maturation procedure will take place. The time for maturation will vary from aquarium to aquarium and so that it requires patience.
Adding The Fish
For help selecting the type of tank that you would really like to keep ask your vendor.
Before adding any fish, get a few recommendations from your vendor about the species in which you are interested. As with the rest of the animal kingdom, not every fish species will peacefully live together. Different species may choose different water types.
Patience is dignity, add fish slowly. Overstocking or stocking too fast may generate ‘new tank syndrome’ when the filter isn’t able to handle the increased waste load. Ammonia and nitrite can rapidly boost to unhealthy levels and often fish will now no longer survive.
Healthy fish have clean bright eyes, unharmed fins, intact scales, no ulcerations or bumps, proper swimming and stable breathing. Do not buy a fish that looks healthy if you have a sick fish in the tank. Fish diseases can be easily transmitted without showing any symptoms.
Stocking Levels
You cannot tell exactly how many fish your aquarium can hold. Variations in size, species requirements, water parameters, and compatibility of available fish are significant. Ask your vendor for recommendations on stocking densities for your selected aquarium.
Aim to build a set up as natural as possible, for example shoaling fish want to be kept in numbers. Keep in mind that beautification and plants take up space, however these are suggested add-ons. Live plants help in removing nitrate, and ornaments can provide less energetic and isolated fish with a safe and secure retreat.
The diet and feeding necessities vary between species. Some feed on the surface, others can be seen across the water, and others spend more time at the bottom of the tank. Make sure you have enough food to meet the needs of all your fish.
Do not expect to fill your tank with lots of fish as your vendor. They are able to stock tanks more heavily than home aquariums because of their management skills and advanced filtration systems.
Maintenance
Water quality should be checked all the time, mainly during preliminary set-up and when stocking the tank. This helps to decrease the chance of generating any harm to the animals due to the build-up of excessive ammonia (NH3) and nitrite (NO2) levels. It is also recommended to test for nitrate (NO3), pH and hardness. Don’t neglect to examine the temperature of the aquarium too.
Regular partial water adjustments are needed to eliminate excess nitrate. This needs to be achieved as frequently as required. Remember smaller fish tanks require more regular maintenance because the water is much less stable than in large aquariums.
Filters should be checked for clogging and waste build-up. If they need cleaning, never bleach them under a tap as this washes away the useful bacteria. If clogged, bleach the filter media in some of the waste tank water during a habitual water change.
Transporting & Releasing The Fish
Fish are easily strained for instance by too much lights, vibrations, noise and movement. When transporting your fish home attempt to decrease the stressors your fish are subjected to.
Your vendor will normally sell you your fish in a plastic bag. Don’t keep them in this too long. It is perfect that after purchase, the fish need to be taken home immediately to evade any changes in the chemistry and temperature of the water in the bag.
Once brought home, your fish will need to adapt to their new environment. It is best to turn off the aquarium lights and let the bag soak in the water in your tank for up to 30 minutes To ensure that the temperature in the bag is equal to the aquarium water. Slowly add a small amount of aquarium water to the bag. This allows the fish to adapt to any variations between the retailer’s water and your own. This may take up to half an hour. When done, slowly release the fish into the aquarium, adding as much store water as possible and discarding the bag and excess water. (This process will take longer with more specific species like Discus.
General Maintenance
Before you purchase confirm the following:
- You have the right equipment and location for the aquarium.
- You have done research on all the species that interest you and all of your final choices are ideal.
- You are familiar with how your fish can be transported and released.
- You know about the daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance needed for your aquarium.
- You are ready to take care of your fish for the rest of their lives.
Never leave an animal or plant purchased for a home aquarium into the wild. It is illegal and in most fish species it can lead to premature and prolonged death because they are not native to this country. Any surviving animals or plants are harmful to the environment.
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